Day 74 – Mon, 11 Oct to Nullarbor Roadhouse

What a simply unbelievable place the Nullarbor region is, I just didn’t expect what I am seeing. Although the roads are straight and not very challenging, the riding is wonderful, even with the weather.

It rained overnight, and I was thankful for being in a room rather than the tent – when I saw the hard dirt ground I opted for a room last night and the weather was also threatening. I got the first rain for the trip last night since I left Rod in Cairns.

The wind had changed direction and strengthened. I road with the wind coming in from the S-SE all day and it was gusting. This made passing the numerous road-trains that much more blustery but that was all okay. The majority of the vehicles are either trucks (well road trains 37m long) or 4WD pulling caravans.

On leaving Cocklebiddy I had about a 90km ride to Madura where I went down the Madura Pass. Totally unexpected as one moment I was on a plain and then I dropped possibly 100 odd metres onto another plain that spread out below. I travelled along this plain for about 160km with the Hampton Range to my left and the ocean (not visible) way off to my right. At Eucla I ascended again to the plateau. The plateau is the Nullarbor.

It definitely has the correct name (Nullarbor – treeless plain) but I was surprised by the amount of grass. The locals tell me that they have had a lot of rain this year and it is one of the best for many years.

Most of the stops have been simply roadhouses with fuel and some basic accommodation. Eucla was bigger even boasting their own police station and nurse. Wow! Another 12km W I hit the WA/SA border. It is supposed to have a Border Village, but don’t blink as it is only another fuel stop.  

I continued on a further 180km and finished my day at the Nullarbor Hotel/Motel – yep another roadhouse with basic accommodation and gravel all round. The wind is howling outside my donga for the night, but there is at least mobile service.

This latter section of the trip saw the Great Australian Bight within less than 100m of the road at times. I stopped at most of the lookouts through this section. It is here that the Nullarbor simply drops off a cliff into the ocean. Quite spectacular, but I didn’t trust myself to get to close, the last thing I would want to do is to trip and stumble off the edge of Australia. I think my children would understand this precaution that I have taken and agree with my decision.

So in all, just another enjoyable ride across the southern part of this fabulous land. I am really enjoying this riding, far more than I had anticipated and doing it a lot easier as well.