Day 22 – Sat, 31 Jul to Karumba Point

This is the first day I have had internet access since leaving Robyn in Cairns, so you will see posts for days 20, 21 and today.

Today was another transit day. The 60 odd km back on the gravel road was much easier then the ride in – possibly something to do with doing it first thing rather than the end of a long day.

Once I was back in Georgetown I was back on the Savannah Way heading W and the scenery was pretty much the same for most of the day over the 485km. Grassland with low scrubby trees. Lots of cattle as usual but and inordinate amount of kangaroo road kill.

This made interesting riding as the problem was the birds scavenging off the road kill. I am not sure wether I have mentioned this before, but I mounted roo whistles on the bike before I left. Now I don’t know whether these actually work for kangaroos, keeping them clear from the road, but one did pass about 50m ahead earlier today. But I believe they actually are amazing for the birds.

Previously birds would wait to the last minute to take off and you could be dodging them just as they launched themselves for the skies. But on this trip birds generally start to clear the road well in advance of my arrival (possibly 50m ahead) and it has been that consistent that I can only put it down to the whistles – really worth fitting even for local rides.

Well the birds that are feasting off the road kill have been something else. Yes they try to depart but their numbers mean that some are slightly slower than the rest and with me travelling at a rapid rate (yeah yeah I know travel slower, but you would never get anywhere) invariably one or two are a problem.

Also, they generally don’t want to leave their strip of meat behind so you have birds almost lifting the carcass off the ground – quite amazing. So the trick is to watch carefully for road kill and prepare for the flight of the birds.

So my trip took me through Croydon (lunch) then onto Normanton (which I found out later, the reason it was quite literally closed was that the local grand final involving Normanton was being played today).

I was lucky to get fuel here before travelling further. Well I crossed the Norman River, and about 20km further on the trees disappeared and it was dead flat grassland.

After seeing all the trees for so long it was just such a shock to see treeless grasslands out to the horizon in all directions. This remained until I reached Karumba at the head of the Norman River emptying into the Gulf of Carpentaria.

Tonight at the campground at Karumba Point it was barbeque night where the owners host a BBQ fish night. Everyone brings their own drinks, salad, plate and chairs and the hosts provide a fantastic serving of fish locally caught – wonderful after all the camp cooking.

So I joined my neighbours (from Coffs Harbour) and I provided the fresh bread rolls that I managed to buy and they provided some salad and a lovely cold can of beer – we all believed it was a fair swap as they hadn’t had any fresh bread for days and well I have been in a dry period.

Today was quite hot reaching 37C on the road and tonight is still warm and the humidity is extremely high. I just can’t believe how much rain they must get up here in the wet season. To see empty river beds full of sand and gravel some 50m wide (I understand that many have water flowing 1m beneath the surface even though they look dry). So to have this humidity in the dry (winter season) it must be hell in the wet (summer season).

Day 21 – Fri, 30 Jul at Cobbold Gorge

Today was a day at the Gorge. It started with an easy morning as I was booked onto the afternoon Gorge tour. The camping here is so easy, had a great night sleep and we were in for another warm day.

I did a bit of forward trip planning and booked a couple of nights camping. A chat with a number of grey nomads who have been travelling for a while and getting information on various locations took in most of the morning – where did the time go.  I also had a short walk around the place, but nothing too energetic.

The Gorge tour was 3hours and left at 1:30 – well what a great place and the guides were full of information. It is actually private property and a working cattle station. It is around 1290 sq km (yeah about 330,000 acres) and is run by 4 sons who have various parts of the property for cattle and one son & wife run the tourism part.

Back in the late 1800’s it was a mining lease known as the Sherwood lease, but when it was bought for cattle it became known, and is still called Robin Hood Station. The station runs around 12,000 head of Braham cattle – most suitable for this environment – and they are endeavouring to manage the whole site in an eco friendly manner, with the Gorge area being classified as a Nature Reserve.

Another interesting point is because of the Cooktown Iron Bark tree which wild camels would eat, there are no camels in the Savannah region. Being very toxic (leaf, trunk the lot) it made short shift of the camels. The termites obviously can’t eat it so it was great for fencing and building. Just don’t throw it on the fire and breathe in the smoke.

After a 4WD bus ride around part of the property we did a walk up from the ravine to the plateau, through old aboriginal camp areas with views over the terrain and looking down into the Gorge. Then it was time for the flat bottom boats using small electric outboards for a tour up through the Gorge. The boats could only get about 600m up the Gorge which then went on for some further kilometres – but wow what a fabulous 600m.

Well the Gorge is magnificent - the sandstone plateau was cracked probably by volcanic activity and the water now passes through in the wet and gouges and wears the rock away creating fascinating angles and hollows. Sandstone is not the only rock type, with significant volcanic deposits and conglomerate strata layers.

The boats could only just fit through in some places and the water reached depths of 12m – and this is in the dry season. Sightings of freshwater crocs and numerous bird life made it a real pleasure – oh the serenity. This place is quite unique and pictures can’t capture the scenery nor the feeling of tranquillity.

The day has been hot – I guess in the mid 30C – and now it is pleasant sitting around the camp area in the shade of the trees, writing this blog with birds talking and the pleasant air temperatures. Although hot there is little humidity so more then bearable.

Tonight is going to be relaxing (sound familiar) – I am going to avoid the restaurant and have a camp cooked meal, again – and then have an early night with my book as I want to be up early tomorrow and hit the road - 60km of gravel at the beginning followed by around 400+km is planned.

Day 20 – Thu, 29 Jul to Cobbold Gorge

It was a long morning, rising reasonably early and spending a few hours with Robyn, packing the bike with all my items and saying goodbye. This would be a long separation for us – possibly the longest in our married life.

The ride out of Palm Cove (Cairns) took me back up the mountain to Kuranda through to Mareeba then down the Kennedy Hwy through Atherton and SW until I hit the Gulf Hwy. All of this is part of the Savannah Way which runs from Cairns to Broome across the top of Australia. I will not be following it the whole way as it gets into real 4WD country but I will be on the Savannah Way to Normanton and then pick it up again in the NT.

I was keen to get going as I had quite a few km to do today (490km in fact). But when I got underway it was difficult. I was unsure whether my mood was a result of the rest I had had, leaving Robyn again, or simply the fact that I was covering ground that I had already ridden. Whatever it was I was in a down mood for at least the first 270 odd km. I had a break for morning tea and once getting past the Undara Lava Tubes I hit new territory and generally my mood improved.

The Savannah Way took me almost due W through Mt Surprise then onto Georgetown, where I turned S and headed towards the Cobbold Gorge. This was such a vast contrast to the scenery and flora that I had been in for the past couple of weeks. My mood was really improving and I was once again enjoying myself.

Beyond Mt Surprise the road narrowed to a single lane with gravel passing areas either side. Generally the small vehicles (including 4WD) moved over enabling me to stay on the bitumen. But the road trains were something else – these 53m long beasts simply held their course and it was up to me to get out of their way. Fair enough but you just have to know the rules.

We did cross a small range which gave me wonderful views back over the landscape and down the other side through rough hills all with the same vegetation.  This was truly amazing as I have never travelled through such territory and I found this uplifting. Thank goodness though that I had a great bike under me which, as they say, just keeps on keeping on – just fabulous.

The countryside was basically grasslands with low scattered stunted trees, with termite mounds in their thousands. These averaged 300-500mm in height and with their numbers it is a wonder there is any wooded vegetation in existence. A good lookout for Brahman cattle had to be maintained as the road is basically unfenced and this is cattle country.

Once I headed S from Georgetown, the road to the Gorge included about 60km of gravel out of a total of 90km. The road was in fairly good condition but the dirt riding skills that I have been learning were obviously an advantage. There were a number of rough sections – one in particular took me down into a rough crossing with a very small amount of water (nothing to worry about) but wherever there is water out here there are usually cattle, and sure enough a number were in the shadows and were a bit skittish.

So tonight I am in a wonderful campsite, grassy areas, great amenities, even a small cafe if I wanted to have dinner out. But no  my travelling camp kitchen was used and I am now writing this blog under the stars in a barmy mid 20C temperature – oh it got up to 35C today on the ride so I guess warm weather is ahead. I am staying here for two nights as tomorrow I am taking a tour of the Gorge.

21-28 Jul in Cairns Area

Today is the last day of holidaying in the Cairns area with Robyn. Tomorrow I set off again on my trip, but this time alone.

Robyn & I have had a fabulous time. We have been based at Palm Cove in a 1bed apartment. For the first few days we used public transport and then hired a car for 4 days, and the last few days back to public transport. Optimus Prime has had a well earned rest.

Together we have:

• been to Kuranda on the old train and back down again on the Skyrail – magical
• driven to Daintree & then onto Cape Tribulation – walked in century old rainforests, taken a river cruise spotting crocs, snakes, birds & fauna
• had drinks in the Central Pub in Port Douglas and just hung  with the crowd
• walked the Mossman Gorge, crossed the Great Dividing Range and headed N to Bobs Lookout simply to take in the contrasting flora and the magnificent views of the plains and ranges
• absorbed the dream of an Italian immigrant that built a home (well sort of a castle) and magnificent gardens in the 1930’s at Paronella Park just S of Innisfail at Wena Creek
• driven the magnificent Gillies Hwy to see Lake Eacham, Yungaburra, Millaa Milla Falls, Herberton, Atherton, viewed the 500 year old Cathedral & Curtain Figs, and visited the decadent Coffee Factory at Mareeba 
• cruised to Green Island for coral reef viewing in a glass bottom boat and walking the sandy beaches and limited rainforest

So you can see it has been a busy time. But we still were able to walk the Palm Cove beach, enjoy an ice cream whilst sitting on a beach bench feeling the warm evening breeze caress our skin whilst the gentle surf lapped on the shore. How does that make you southerners feel in the middle of a cold winter – excruciatingly jealous I hope.

OP has had a little TLC applied with a general clean & check-up – all is well and like me he is ready for the next phase of the trip. So until then stay safe and well.

Day 19 – Tue, 20 Jul to Palm Cove

The morning by the Lake was a cracker – birds chirping, fog on the water, a couple of single scullers gliding across the glassy water, sun rising over the mountains. So the morning was a little slow as we took it all in over breakfast.

We then headed W through Atherton, N to Mareeba and then finally E to Cairns. Rod took his bike to BMW for its service, whilst I rode into Cairns Airport to meet Robyn on her arrival.

Robyn wasn’t expecting me so it was a delightful surprise for her (although she didn’t at first recognise me because she thought I was simply a local Cairns clown -  some form of airport amusement in my scruffy bike attire) and fabulous to see her also.

Robyn headed off on a bus to Palm Cove whilst I rode in to meet Rod at BMW. We had lunch whilst he transferred his gear to the loan F800R with 314km on the dial and he found this ride a tad more powerful then his previous loaner at Longreach – the Wild One was back.

We rode N to Palm Cove where we are now based. A swim in the pool and a walk along the beach sees us winding down in the 30C temperatures.

Rod leaves tomorrow for his return trip to first pickup his bike and then home to Lismore. Robyn and I are taking a holiday on the coast for the next 8 days. So this will be the last blog post until I restart my trip next week.

If you have any questions or suggestions to make about the forward journey then at any time make them in the comments. I’ll try to answer the questions and take on board any suggestions.

Until next week take care and remember I’m enjoying myself in sunny FNQ.

Day 18 – Mon, 19 Jul to Lake Tinaroo

The rain from last night had cleared by morning and a bright and sunny day was with us. The clouds on the mountain range that was our backdrop had also cleared, so this was going to be a great day’s riding.

We had agreed that if the weather cleared then we would do a circuit of the tablelands in the dry conditions, so we set off once again up the Gillies Hwy – you should be aware of this by now as I have mentioned this a number of times.

Well did I say wow, wow, wow to describe this road. Only about 35km in length but climbs well over 900m – so lots, and I mean lots of consecutive curves, switches in direction, loop backs, etc.

So yeah there were smiles to be had at the top. We then headed onto Millaa Millaa and on towards Ravenshoe where we then travelled back to Millaa Millaa on the more scenic route that we had travelled before – that was last Monday, seems like much longer. On our return we then took in a number of the waterfalls along the waterfall way. Millaa Millaa Falls (aboriginal meaning ‘many waters’) being the tallest.

After lunch we took a quick run down to Innisfail near the coast, back up to Gordonvale before our last ride up the Gillies to our camp site on Lake Tinaroo, near Yungburra – being about 15km from Atherton.

We travelled around 315km today in our circuit of the range and tableland, and are now camped only 50km by road from where we started. Seems stupid but what a wonderful day of companionship, sightseeing and riding.

 Today was also Rod & my last full day of riding together on this trip. Tomorrow will take us down into Cairns for his bike service prior to his return home. Tonight we spent time sitting by the Lake with our evening cuppa just reliving the day and the trip, the many types of roads travelled, the characters we had met and the places we had been. It has been terrific to have shared this part of my journey with him, and I thank him for sharing it with me.

Day 17 – Sun, 18 Jul to Gordonvale

Last night we had a night on the town at Port. We had a great meal, bottle of wine and finished off with a waffle cone – decadent. So this morning was a slow rise and as we were only going to do a bit of local riding this seemed appropriate.

So we headed N then NW over to Mt Molloy for some more twists and turns and then S to Mareeba for morning tea. Being Sunday a few more bikes were on the road as well as the boys in blue in conveniently located spots.

This weekend Mareeba also had their annual rodeo so the town was setup as you would expect, for the anticipated followers.

We then rode further along to Atherton and then onto Milandra Falls. We were endeavouring to re-ride the Millaa Millaa road back to Ravenshoe but the rain closed in again so we may not see this part of the tablelands. We turned around and punished ourselves again by riding down the Gillies Hwy across the Gillies Range back to Gordonvale where we are camping in a free campsite for the night.

The ride down the range was brilliant although most of it was in the wet. Taking it slower did not diminish the fabulous curves and views – in fact gave us time to see the views.

Tonight the rain has closed in on us once again so it is going to be an early night. My man riding shotgun, Rod has only a couple days left before he heads south – I think he would be rather heading west with me.

I want to thank all those people who make comments on the blogs, I do read them when I get a chance and it is great to see that making the posts interests you and is worthwhile. Well it is worthwhile even if it was only for myself, but hearing from you guys helps me to still feel connected to my family and friends – so thank you.

Day 16 – Sat, 17 Jul back to Port Douglas

Well today broke sunny and fine and this saw the last of the gravel roads for this part of the trip. We headed out at what now seems the usual time of around 9am after a leisurely breakfast looking forward to some R&R in Port Douglas tonight.

Well it only took us a minute or so to be brought quickly back to reality when we hit the horrendous Peninsula Development Road; the overnight break did not see any road improvements. It is such that you cannot pick a decent line, with ruts and rocks and loose gravel all over the place. We thought we had 60km of this but thankfully it was interspersed with bitumen and improvements ready for surfacing.

The very last 150m with bitumen insight was probably the worst with so many ruts and loose stuff that the bikes were giving that many shakes we both thought it would be ……….. (a few expletives are now appropriate).   When we got to the Lakeland Roadhouse (which is basically at the start of the road N) we spoke to a young guy who had just returned from the Cape and his comments were that the road deteriorated even worse – thankfully we did not tackle the Cape.

Anyway we travelled south back to Port Douglas through to Mt Molloy and down the mountain to Mossman for the final short run into Port. The scenery was simply spectacular with the Great Dividing Range to our left and right, with the plain in between about 3-5km across.

The vegetation was tall brown grasses with termite mounds and stunted trees. This is mainly cattle grazing country with some banana plantations and we think passionfruit vines growing on trellis. We sighted a busted (or plains turkey)  just leaving the road as we passed by, this was our second sighting of these birds.

As we approached Mt Molloy we were on the W side with the coast over the range to our E. The sky was bright blue but the large cumulous clouds hung above the range touching the tops of the peaks sitting like large hats on the mountains  - simply stunning.

We turned E at Mt Molloy and this took us back down the 30km road to the coast. This is a great bike road and gave us an opportunity to blow some cobwebs away and clean the outer edges of our tyres.

We checked into the Port-O-Call accommodation, fuelled our bikes, visited Coles for resupply and are now resting beside the pool with some chips and a cold drink. Oh its great to be alive in this country – if you have a dream then just do it.

Day 15 – Fri, 16 Jul to Laura

Check out day 14 also as both were posted today.

What a fantastic nights sleep – the total tiredness from the previous day, the cascading water and the great site made for a really wonderful rest. We did get a couple of showers in the early morning and I was contemplating a rest day, but the sun broke through and another day of riding was to be had.

From Endeavour Falls we were heading initially N for a few km then heading NW on Battle Camp Rd – not sure why it is called this but we did pass the Battle Camp Station so I guess that may explain it.

This was a full day’s riding on gravel – not the same as yesterday a fair bit better. But in about 10km we hit our first creek crossing. So off the bikes to check things out. This was made difficult by numerous 4WD passing through, stirring up the water and generally rocking and rolling as they went.

So we walked across through the water (boots and all) to check things out for ourselves. I spoke to a southbound couple to ask about the way ahead, as there was no point in crossing this first creek if the road got worse. So we took photos of the Isabella Falls which was fed by the creek and generally summoned up the courage to give it a go.

Off we went, and on crossing we congratulated ourselves – that wasn’t so bad was the general consensus – but a real challenge seeing it was our 1st crossing – sounds like we just crossed the Equator or something doesn’t it, but that would be easier.

So we rode on and the road was dry with lots of corrugations but generally not too bad – maybe our off road skills are just improving. In all we had to do 3 more creek crossing one being a concrete causeway but the others just el natural.

After much discussions on the earlier ones, Rod took the 3rd crossing without checking. I followed his path as I thought he had seen something that I hadn’t. Well the crossing went fine and he stopped on the exit slope. So I followed his path and I promptly stopped about 2m short of where he had stopped.

I hadn’t realised that he stopped because he couldn’t go any further as he was stuck in the heavy river pebbles – exactly why I also stopped. We extricated ourselves and promptly laughed at the audience we had watching us do our thing.

So talk about being led, in his case across the creek (rather than up) without a paddle. I’m still trying to understand his signals after he had casually stepped off the bike and waved – could that mean stop or come on down.

We stopped in at the Old Laura Homestead which had been occupied from around 1830 right through to 1966 – it was a cattle station. We decided that we should look for a camp for the night so we headed for Laura where we are currently spending the night.

This was a good decision for the road deteriorated from here with far more corrugations. When we hit the main Peninsula Developmental Road (this heads N to the Cape) the corrugations simply got worse.  Talk about the t-shirts that state there are 3,545,347 corrugations N – we reckon we travelled at least that every km to camp. Bumpy, you bet.

Day 14 – Thu, 15 Jul to Endeavour Falls

Overnight the wind would come in gusts – we were camped in a very treed campground and you could here it approach through the trees before hitting us and then it was gone just as quick – peace again.

We had wallabies grazing around us for breakfast, I put an apple down on the ground whilst I went to get something and a wild turkey came in and helped itself to my apple.

We got caught in rain whilst packing up the tents – well I did – and everything was wet. By the time I had everything roughly stowed the clouds had gone and we haven’t seen rain again all day. It has been 28+C today so good riding weather.

We took in a few of the local sights of Cooktown, especially the statue of Capt Cook in the park on the foreshore. We then headed out of town in a NW direction.

The riding quickly turned to gravel roads so we adjusted our tyre pressures and headed on. We arrived at Endeavour Falls for morning tea and walked through the campground to check out the falls. We hadn’t intended coming back here but this is where we finished up for the night.

We then headed further N to the aboriginal settlement of Hopevale. The servo for obtaining permits was closed (for lunch) so we sorted out a permit from the local foodstore and headed towards Cape Bedford and Elim where the coloured sands are located.

Well this turned out to be some very, very challenging riding. The 23km outbound trip took us over two hours. We rode through gravel roads, wet bright red loam, loamy holes filled with water and sand drifts – I now know why I don’t like sand. The return trip was a little quicker because we knew the water spots and how to negotiate them.

We didn’t quite make it all the way to the beach but to within 4km. The road went steeply down hill with lots of gullies and bad riding lines, not to mention slippery red loam and sections of sand.

So we were happy to have achieved what we had and headed back to Endeavour Falls for a great home cooked meal and now for a sleep. The falls are immediately behind our tents so we can hear the cascading water – great soothing sounds to rest the weary bones.

Day 13 – Wed, 14 Jul to Cooktown

Today I posted both days 12 & 13 so  check them both out.

Well the showers were gone by morning replaced by solid rain. It rained half the night and was still going strong this morning. So after breakfast we thought that we would look at the Bloomfield Track (Cape Trib to Cooktown) that lay ahead of us and see how the going went. We were not optimistic given the conditions of the past 12+ hours.

We didn’t travel all that far on the track when we called it quits – well some would say that but in actual fact we were being sensible little vegemites. The road, no track, was atrocious – we were sliding all over the place and the thought of another 80km of this was unthinkable.

As there was 3 creek crossings ahead I had visions of us making it across one and then not the second, and by the time we turned back to recross the first we would be unable to cross. So we would be stuck between the two – with a croc either side. So common sense prevailed and we decided to head S the way we came yesterday.

So we road back down to the Daintree River, crossed over on the ferry and rode back into Mossman. We then headed west up over to Mt Molloy then N towards Cooktown where we are now camping. This slight detour cost us an additional 250km but far less stress – I just had further visions of dropping Optimus Prime half way across the river and it going glug, glug, glug.

In actual fact the ride to Cooktown this way was really fantastic. We had a wonderful twistie ride up to Mt Molloy then the countryside changed to open flat country with stunted trees. This continued until we started to rise just after Mt Elephant.

We had lunch at Bobs Lockout which looked across to the surrounding mountains and back down across the plain that we had just traversed.

From here right through to Lakeland where the road goes left to Cape York or right to Cooktown it was full of curves and sweepers into open areas with continual changes in vegetation. From Lakeland to Cooktown the road continued to offer some great riding and some straighter stretches.

We turned off onto gravel for a short 5km ride up to the Lions Den Hotel (I think that is what it is called – the Lion something)– a bit of a local icon where we had a soft drink and a chat with some locals. I also met a couple who were still on their way home from the Ulysses AGM in Albany back in March. They had a Basestation caravan so the bike was in the van with them.

It is simply a beautiful country – the vegetation changes as often as the odometer ticks over. The forest mountains ring us continuously. We have seen rainforests, tea crops, sugarcane fields, sparse landscape & brahman cattle. The sugarcane is being harvested so we have mechanised cane cutters, cane hopper trucks unloading into the small gauge cane rail cars.

So although we didn’t do what we set out to do this day, boy who would miss the 350km alternative.

Day 12 – Tue, 13 Jul to Cape Tribulation

Well the day broke with overcast conditions and the odd shower. And that is how the day progressed – light showers, sunshine, then more showers then more sunshine – and ended with you guessed it, more showers.

Today was a short ride from Port Douglas to Cape Tribulation, but it was lots of on/off the bike doing sightseeing, rainforest walks, dodging rain showers. You can get from my constant reference to showers that we are pretty sick of them. I’ve decided that this sort of touring – on/off the bike in the humidity – is extremely tiring, harder than riding a 500km day. I’ll have to consider this in the planning of the remainder of the trip. Rod agrees as he had a catnap whilst I was taking a shower.

We went to Mossman Gorge first up and watched dickheads (sorry kids but that is what aptly describes them) drive their caravans up narrow roads contrary to the advisory signs not to proceed. The walk through the rainforest was wonderful – cool and peaceful. Crossed a suspension bridge over the creek – obviously we were big kids trying to make it swing.

We then rode up to the Daintree village before taking the ferry across the Daintree River heading north. The roads are quite busy, but quite comfortable to travel. It surprised me that the rainforest basically comes right up to the side of the road and you have to actually pull off and park to see any sights.

Lunch was had in you guessed it another rainforest area where we took another walk through the surrounds, and another shower. A chat with a number of tour operators concerning the road north of Cape Trib was also included, and they donated a half dozen fresh bread rolls to be added to our travelling pantry.

We then headed into Cape Tribulation where we are currently staying in PK’s Jungle Village – well the room facilities look like they never made it out of the jungle. As I said to Rod, their standard room has two single beds and that’s it – not even a hook on the wall – well there is a mirror. Oh well it was better then setting up camp in the rain and trying to cook outdoors.

So we are presently enjoying a cold ale in the bar with a bit of UB40 going strong – far better than Sink the Bismark. Red Red Wine will be next for the umpteenth time – oh well maybe they have a limited selection here in the Jungle. It appears it is basically setup for backpackers or combie drivers.

So we’ll decide how far we get tomorrow based on the conditions as they appear. We have had mixed reactions to our questions, from you can do it easy, to you’ll never make it on those things. So I guess it is really up to us to find out.

Day 11 – Mon 12 Jul to Port Douglas

This is the first night I have internet access for a few days, so check out the posts for days 9, 10 and today.

Well today was a slow start, although an early rise we simply packed up the camp and then headed off about 10am. The weather was becoming overcast and through the morning would become more showery. We rode through light showers and mist until we reached the eastern side of the range where there was sun and 28+C.

We were basically riding without a plan today. Rod wanted to get his bike looked at at Cairns and then nothing more planned than that. So we rode for an hour or so, pulled into a picnic area for morning tea then rode some more.

My GPS was saying straight ahead as we left Ravenshoe but with a sign to the right saying unsuitable for caravans what more enticement was there. So I took the right turn off to Millaa Millaa and we were quickly into rain and dairy country. The road was basically a single car width, I was hoping that it wouldn’t turn to mud but we proceeded on – no wet weather gear on. They didn’t need to have signs to Misty Mountains because we were in them.

Well what a simply stunning road it turned out to be – passing though dairy country, lush rainforests across tops of the range and down through valleys. At the end we both had big smiles, even though we were a little wet we were internally glowing.

We then proceeded on a road to Malandra before taking the Gillies Road across the Gillies Ranges to Gordonvale on the coast. Every bike rider will know the Oxley Hwy and similar road types  – well this was just one such road with all elements included. It was showering on the western side and hot on the east. There were smiles all around by the end of it and we nearly turned around simply to do it again. Try it if you are up this way you will not be disappointed.

After checking out with BMW, consuming a couple of meat pies with a couple of local bikers we set off north towards Daintree. Well we road to Port Douglas and decided that this was far enough for the day. We found a bed for the night had a swim in the pool – how relaxing is that after a day’s ride – then headed for a walk to the beach.

Well the beach walk took us up to town where we decided to have a couple of cold ones in the Surf Club, a walk further into town and we were in the thick of it. Well another well timed beer before we headed back to our base – all in all around 3-4km walk with adequate lubrication.

We then managed a couple of lamb shanks for dinner with a nice red – oh the trials and tribulations of a hard days riding. Now for a good night’s sleep before we head north tomorrow – we expect a ferry crossing and maybe a river crossing or two – must keep an eye out for the croc or two. So for now I’ll sat “see ya later alligator,” and my grandkids would say “in a while crocodile”.

Day 10 – Sun, 11 Jul at Undara Volcanic NP

Today was a rest from riding as we are camped here for another night. We rose early and to a beautiful sunny day – probably around 28C with a cool breeze.

We checked at reception and the only way we can see the lava tubes is by an organised tour. We thought this was a bit rich, but later understood why. The NP is a closed park only accessible by licensed operators. QNP maintain all the infrastructure – roads, walks, paths, fencing, etc – and the tour operators, such as the Undara Experience (where we are staying), look after the tourists.

The lava tubes are quite fragile and also dangerous. The walls can fall in, floors can be suspect and some tubes can have high levels of CO2. So I can appreciate the need for restrictions of access.

So we booked onto a 4 hour afternoon tour, and headed off for a bush walk around the lodge. This took us up the the Bluff for views back over the grounds and 180 vistas. Then we walked down to the swamp where we found water birds, kangaroos grazing and along the trail a 1.5m snake (not sure what type but as far as I am concerned all snakes are poisonous and should be avoided at all costs).

We returned and had lunch in the camp and then headed on our tour. Well these lava tubes were sensational. Developed about 190,000 years ago when the Undara Volcano erupted – not in a sudden explosion, but in a continuous lava flow from within the earth.

As the lava flowed over the valleys, creeks, etc the outer flows cooled and solidified and the inner cores continued to flow. This created the tubes. One such tube runs almost 2km. We walked down, into, along and out through the tubes. Some were closed because they were too dangerous or simply inaccessible.  We scoured 4 tubes and the rich colours of the various minerals could be seen. In one tube the roots of the plants growing above were visible from the tube ceiling some 10m above us.

Tonight is another wonderful night around the camp fire with a balmy breeze blowing, having a cuppa under the stars. What a way to enjoy life – bring it on.

PS. Oh, Rod just got back with our washing and has a laundry tip – make sure you empty your pockets of all tissues (and this also includes all paperwork from the campground) before you wash your clothes. He pities the next guy to use the washer as they too will have socks, grungies, etc getting the Undara Experience.He recons nothing he had has pockets but I am uncertain of this (you see I am the one writing the blog so I have editorial discretion over all commentary herein).