Day 20 – Thu, 29 Jul to Cobbold Gorge

It was a long morning, rising reasonably early and spending a few hours with Robyn, packing the bike with all my items and saying goodbye. This would be a long separation for us – possibly the longest in our married life.

The ride out of Palm Cove (Cairns) took me back up the mountain to Kuranda through to Mareeba then down the Kennedy Hwy through Atherton and SW until I hit the Gulf Hwy. All of this is part of the Savannah Way which runs from Cairns to Broome across the top of Australia. I will not be following it the whole way as it gets into real 4WD country but I will be on the Savannah Way to Normanton and then pick it up again in the NT.

I was keen to get going as I had quite a few km to do today (490km in fact). But when I got underway it was difficult. I was unsure whether my mood was a result of the rest I had had, leaving Robyn again, or simply the fact that I was covering ground that I had already ridden. Whatever it was I was in a down mood for at least the first 270 odd km. I had a break for morning tea and once getting past the Undara Lava Tubes I hit new territory and generally my mood improved.

The Savannah Way took me almost due W through Mt Surprise then onto Georgetown, where I turned S and headed towards the Cobbold Gorge. This was such a vast contrast to the scenery and flora that I had been in for the past couple of weeks. My mood was really improving and I was once again enjoying myself.

Beyond Mt Surprise the road narrowed to a single lane with gravel passing areas either side. Generally the small vehicles (including 4WD) moved over enabling me to stay on the bitumen. But the road trains were something else – these 53m long beasts simply held their course and it was up to me to get out of their way. Fair enough but you just have to know the rules.

We did cross a small range which gave me wonderful views back over the landscape and down the other side through rough hills all with the same vegetation.  This was truly amazing as I have never travelled through such territory and I found this uplifting. Thank goodness though that I had a great bike under me which, as they say, just keeps on keeping on – just fabulous.

The countryside was basically grasslands with low scattered stunted trees, with termite mounds in their thousands. These averaged 300-500mm in height and with their numbers it is a wonder there is any wooded vegetation in existence. A good lookout for Brahman cattle had to be maintained as the road is basically unfenced and this is cattle country.

Once I headed S from Georgetown, the road to the Gorge included about 60km of gravel out of a total of 90km. The road was in fairly good condition but the dirt riding skills that I have been learning were obviously an advantage. There were a number of rough sections – one in particular took me down into a rough crossing with a very small amount of water (nothing to worry about) but wherever there is water out here there are usually cattle, and sure enough a number were in the shadows and were a bit skittish.

So tonight I am in a wonderful campsite, grassy areas, great amenities, even a small cafe if I wanted to have dinner out. But no  my travelling camp kitchen was used and I am now writing this blog under the stars in a barmy mid 20C temperature – oh it got up to 35C today on the ride so I guess warm weather is ahead. I am staying here for two nights as tomorrow I am taking a tour of the Gorge.